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Tire wear and tear

‎The rear tire wears fastest in the center from straight-line riding. As that center flattens, the transition into corners becomes noticeably less smooth: a change in feel that signals significant wear even if depth still looks adequate in the center groove. Check tread depth at multiple points across the full width of both tires, not just in the center, and use wear indicators and a depth gauge together to get an accurate picture.
    • 10/10/2018 -  Updated on 23/07/2026

Why do some tires wear out faster than others?

A tire's final mileage may depend on various factors:

Some of these are within the motorcyclist’s control: tire pressure, load, vehicle speed, riding style (braking and accelerating).

Others are not and would mean changing the kind of riding you're doing:

  • Road use: road curviness, surface type

  • Off-road use: Kind of terrain (sand, gravel, mud, etc.), ambient temperature

A single factor on its own may have only a small impact on a tire's mileage; however, if many factors come together there will be much more wear and tear.

Most of a tire's grip on the road comes from the treads. As they wear down, they lose their ability to drain away water. It is therefore important to ride more slowly on wet surfaces.

Remember to check your tires regularly for wear.

How to check tire wear?

You should always check for wear at several points on the tire.

Checks can be carried out with a depth gauge or using the tread wear indicators molded into the tread (with a symbol visible from the side where present). If the legal or technical limit has been reached, the tire should be disposed of and replaced.

When and how to check your tires?

Tires should be checked regularly to pick up any unusual wear and potential damage.
Follow the steps below in order:

  • Tread: Look for any foreign objects, cuts, localized damage or unusual wear

  • Sides: Look for impact damage (pavement, potholes, etc.), cuts, cracks or unusual deformities

  • Area around the rim/bead chafer: Look for marks made by scrapes or damage to the rim.

All fissures, cuts and visible deformations in the tire tread, the sides, or the area where the tire meets the wheel should be examined in detail (internally/externally) by a tire professional. The same applies to any deterioration of the rim.

Under no circumstances should you re-mount tires that show damage such as a deformed or visible bead, rubber or layers becoming unstuck, damage by oily or corrosive substances, marbling or abrasions to the inner rubber as a result of riding with insufficient tire pressure.

During each vehicle inspection, check that the valve dustcaps are in a satisfactory state. If in doubt, replace them.

FAQ

Read our Frequently Asked Questions.

On the rear tire, normal wear shows as a flattening in the center — the tread wears down fastest in the zone that contacts the road during straight-line riding. The edge of the tread wears more gradually because it contacts the road mainly during cornering lean angles. On the front tire, wear is typically more even across the center. The wear indicators in the tread grooves show when the minimum depth has been reached.

Unusual wear patterns usually indicate an underlying cause:

  • Severe or rapid center wear — chronic overinflation or very aggressive straight-line acceleration

  • Edge wear with unworn center — chronic underinflation

  • Wear on one edge — possible rim/wheel alignment issue, or consistent unidirectional riding style

  • Cupping or scalloping — balance issue, worn suspension components, or incorrect pressure

  • Flat spots — wheel lock from hard braking

As tread depth decreases, water channeling capacity reduces — less depth means less ability to displace water from the contact patch. On dry roads, moderate wear has less immediate effect on grip. On wet roads, the grip reduction becomes significant once tread reaches a level where grooves can no longer evacuate water effectively. Inspect tread at several points across the width — center wear and edge wear can be very different on a motorcycle tire.

Inspect for: cuts or punctures in the tread, sidewall cuts or bulges, delamination (any lifting or separation of the tread from the carcass), damage from oily substances or chemicals, and cracks in the sidewall from age. Any fissure, cut, or visible deformation in the tread, sidewall, or bead area should be examined by a professional before the tire is used again. Never remount a tire that shows signs of bead damage or rubber-layer separation.

Yes. Cupping — a wavy or scalloped wear pattern around the circumference of the tire — is often associated with worn suspension components, particularly dampers (shock absorbers). A damper that no longer controls the wheel's rebound properly allows the tire to bounce and skip, which creates localized wear. Unusual wear that isn't explained by inflation or riding style warrants a suspension inspection alongside the tire assessment.

Yes, if tread depth is still above the wear indicator and there is no other damage. The wear indicator marks the legal and functional minimum, not an arbitrary threshold. Michelin designs motorcycle tires to maintain their performance characteristics right up to the wear limit. However, for wet-weather riding, some reduction in grip occurs before the indicator is reached — riders in rainy climates may choose to replace before the absolute minimum for additional margin.

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